The plains that gave safari its meaning
Serengeti is the park every other park is measured against. Roughly 14,750 square kilometres of open grassland, acacia woodland and granite outcrops carrying the largest overland animal migration left on earth, alongside resident lion, leopard and cheetah that do not move with it.
Serengeti is too large to treat as one place, and where you stay decides what you see. The southern plains around Ndutu are short grass country, open and treeless, and this is where the wildebeest calve between January and March. The Seronera valley in the centre is the year round heart of the park, watered by the Seronera river, and it holds resident lion, leopard and cheetah whether or not the migration is anywhere nearby.
The Western Corridor follows the Grumeti river towards Lake Victoria and carries the herds through roughly May and June, with crocodile heavy crossings. The northern Serengeti around Kogatende runs to the Kenyan border and holds the Mara river, where the crossings most people have seen on television take place between roughly July and October.
A first safari that wants both predators and migration usually splits nights between Seronera and whichever region the herds are in that month.
Lion are the park’s signature. Serengeti holds one of the largest lion populations of any protected area in Africa, and the Seronera prides are well habituated to vehicles. Leopard are reliably found in the sausage trees and riverine fig along the Seronera river, though they take patience. Cheetah favour the open southeastern plains where they can run.
Elephant, buffalo and giraffe are common throughout. Black rhino exist in small, protected numbers and are not something to plan a trip around. Beyond the famous species, the park holds over 500 bird species, and the shift from woodland to open plain over a single morning drive is itself the thing worth seeing.
Accommodation runs the full range. Public campsites and basic tented camps sit at the bottom, permanent lodges in the middle, and small mobile camps that move with the migration at the top. The mobile camps are worth understanding: they relocate several times a year to stay near the herds, which is why a camp name alone does not tell you where in the park you will be sleeping.
Park fees are charged per person per day and are a meaningful share of any Serengeti quote. An operator giving you a price should be able to break out park fees, concession fees and camping or lodge costs separately.
Seasons shift year to year. Treat these as a guide and confirm with your operator.
Calving on the southern plains. Predator action is at its most concentrated.
Long rains. Some camps close, roads are difficult, but prices drop sharply and the park is empty.
Herds move through the Western Corridor and the Grumeti. Dry, comfortable, building towards peak season.
Mara river crossings in the north. The busiest and most expensive window of the year.
Short rains. Herds return south. Green, good value, fewer vehicles.
Three nights minimum. Two nights means you spend most of your time driving in and out.
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